October 23, 2015, 5:25 pm
I have a dull rumbling noise coming from the back of my W203, I have narrowed it down to the large polystyrene tray that sits on top of the spare wheel and underneath the false boot floor, I have wound the huge nut down tight to hold the tray in place yet the noise continues. It sounds awful. Am I missing something?
Thanks
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October 24, 2015, 1:31 am
Been a while since I been here, but now considering a return to MB ownership.
However, I had a w211 e class and got a few scary bills during her time with us, and would like to know what issues these big buses suffer with?
Not going to be used much, more for weekends and towing the caravan as that cdi engine is by far the best engine I have used to tow a van with.
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October 24, 2015, 2:46 am
So the boss's dad calls me and asks if I want the 2009 Sprinter they just decommissioned?
Aye, sure.
It has under 100k and although in need of some bodywork tlc (rusty patches mostly) I know it has been looked after well enough.
Anyway, two thousand five hundred quid.
It's a long wheelbase job, so about 300 feet long and perfect for converting to a camper :D
Cant recall engine size, but it's pretty good on fuel by all accounts.
Any advice on these vans?
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October 24, 2015, 2:52 am
Morning all,
As per title really , 2007 2.2cdi w639 .
The button controls on the wheel do nowt .
Any pointers ?
Ta
Phil
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October 24, 2015, 3:27 am
I believe the recommended tyre for the rear of my sl500 is a 285/35/18 either Michelin or Pirelli. Does anyone have experience of either or even better both? What's quieter? Which was fitted from new?
Thanks
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October 24, 2015, 3:55 am
I'm confused with what you can and can't fiddle with when you disconnect which battery. A clear heads up would be really helpful please. Mines an 2006 S500 with a 27 kg battery in the boot !
1) SAM units are live and shouldn't be fiddled with until the battery is disconnected... but which battery must be disconnected? front / rear / or both?
2) Is there an optimum time to work within / or to leave disconnected?
3) If you disconnect the rear ONLY what info gets lost, what systems are you allowed to play with?
4) Service info in assist, does this get lost?
5) Saved Nav destinations, do these get lost or do both of these get written to proper memory?
6) Does all the stored rubbish about imaginary faults vanish or do I need to go through 49 modules and say get over it you retard one by one?
7) Does anything need coding? Most other manufacturers expect you to code the new battery to the car, so the alternator knows what size you fitted and how best to charge and optimise the new battery for long service life. But on a Merc you don't bother?
8) Can you disconnect either battery and reconnect in any order? If not could I get a clear definitive answer on the best way of working please.
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October 24, 2015, 5:00 am
Hi
Bought one of those icarsoft i980 to see if I could find a fault code related to my coil light coming on with hard acceleration and also because I like my gadgets
the only fault it saw was U010087 "Communication with the engine control unit has a malfunction the message is missing"
This appears to be communication between gearbox footbrake and engine ??
yet the car drives without fault
I did notice that with only a small amount of time with the ignition on the next day the battery had no "Umph"
If I hadn't bought this tool I would have never known of the fault
John F
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October 24, 2015, 5:12 am
Hi
Just joined the forum following the purchase of a C320 CDI Sport. I am finding new toys by the day, yesterday I discovered the multi CD player :D. What I am struggling to find/figure out is how to adjust the audio i.e. bass/treble, right/left balance and front/rear balance. Can anyone help or point me in the right direction? Cannot find any reference in the handbook.
Thanking you in anticipation.
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October 24, 2015, 6:08 am
Hi
i have just purchased a 2014 B Class and obviously doesn't come with a spare wheel or space saver. the car will mostly be driven by my fiancee when taking my 6 month old son somewhere so i'm thinking of buying a spare wheel as i don't want her getting stranded in the event of a blowout that the kit cant save.
Can anyone recommend the best option??
Thanks
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October 24, 2015, 6:09 am
(there are plenty btw :() Had to drive to the NEC this week. Parts of the M1 down to 50 with average cameras, so set it on cruise to 50. Got to the end of that section, so accelerated up to 70 (:roll:). Later on, saw traffic ahead slowing slightly & lifted off at which point the car really slowed down. Way more so than normal lifting off. Oh dear thought I - maybe a brake issue, so dabbed the brakes (I've no idea why either). Anyway back up to speed, all normal including when I lifted off.
Process of elimination I found out that cruise seems to apply the brakes if it hasn't been cancelled & you are well above the set speed.
Played around today while out - 30 limit, so set it at 30. Further on is quite a hill so as the car started to speed up, it then started to slow down and even changed down a gear to hold it at 30.
No doubt a matter that I should RTFM particularly as this is my 3rd R230 and countless others before with CC, but never experienced this before.
Very clever (the car, that is, not me)
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October 24, 2015, 7:07 am
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October 24, 2015, 8:15 am
I've owned many Mercedes cars and vans over the years and I still have some of them from a w114 to a w203 and even a Sprinter van. I have used your forum for helpful tips & advice quite I few times so I decided I should register.
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October 24, 2015, 9:03 am
I want to sell my private car registration number M9 CLC, any advice appreciated.
Thank you
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October 24, 2015, 11:36 am
Got to the car and found it had been raining so started up and noticed no wipers (left in auto) so switched up nothing in all positions so switched off, a few seconds later tried again in auto and working ok, slow and fast then stopped when screen clear. Stopped at the lights and some water ran down from the roof and no wiper action so again tried all positions and nothing so switched off again then on to auto and it gave one wipe then stopped with blades vertical, tried again off and on and blades returned to park.
Tried screen wash pressing the end of the stalk and nothing no wipe no water.
Got home and tried off on the ignition and back on and tried wipers but dead in all positions.
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October 24, 2015, 11:44 am
After fighting the natural weight reduction (rust) away from the structural parts of my car, I managed to increase its weight probably back to normal.
(When I say "I" I don't mean it, the guys at the body-shop did it. That match body work is outside my competences...)
O/S
before:
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after:
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N/S
before:
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after:
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underside:
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I can't find the photos that show the underside done.
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October 24, 2015, 2:14 pm
Well, basically just as the title says - and my apologies, as it's most probably a silly question, but anyway: is it safe to remove the cover from what I presume is, an ECU, take it home, clean / paint / carbon wrap, etc?
The rest of the bay is looking reasonably okay, without much effort, but this cover is just an eyesore:
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October 24, 2015, 3:53 pm
hello, i just bought Mercedes B class 10 reg, 1.6, automatic gearbox, petrol,every time when i start an engine then is making a whistling sounds for a first 5 minutes then is gone? is it normal?, any ideas?? please put your email i will send an mp3 attachment with sound recording.
Many thanks
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October 24, 2015, 8:57 pm
Anyone got a remap they no longer need:p
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October 25, 2015, 1:29 am
Replaced the missing Keyless Go card which was not supplied with my car.
Found the system works except for the boot button and the driver door locking button(the passenger door locking button works)
Going through some of the other postings l see that this is a common problem.
What l would like to know is:-
1-Can the left locking button on the handle be removed and fitted into the drivers side handle?
I am not sure if the switch is built into the handle and as such can or cannot be removed.
2-I see that the handle is held in with one screw behind the rubber door seal, which l have removed and the handle did not move.
So before l destroy anything l thought that l would check with the experts as to how does the handle come out?
3-If the switches cannot be swapped, will a passenger door handle (left hand drive) from the States work on a right hand car?
I would like to purchase a new unit but l would have to take out a bank loan so l am hoping that a barely-used unit from the States will still be working.
4-Boot unlock button does not work; l take it that the whole handle has to be replaced?
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October 25, 2015, 1:54 am
Hi, I am hoping someone can shed some light on this.....
I have a 2000 CLK230 Kompressor, On startup it is extremely 'lumpy'. Revving between 500 and 1000rpm continuously up and down.
I can leave it standing until it warms up but doesn't change until it has been driven.
When driving, just after startup, it is very jumpy, still revving like aforementioned. Within about half a mile it stops and returns to normal. It will then stay normal, forever, until it is turned off and on again, like after filling up.
I can drive 500 miles in it with no problem at all. Unless I have to turn the engine off. It is highly unlikely to be temperature related, more like pressure related.
I haven't plugged it in to a diagnostic machine as yet but will be doing so soon.
Can anyone help????????????
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